Monday, June 4, 2012

Classic Smokey Eye Tutorial

Every woman loves a sexy, smokey eye. There are many versions you can do, Parisian, pink, golden, bronzed (which I happen to have a tutorial over), and many more. Knowing the basic techniques in a classic smokey eye will give you the tools to branch out and make more creative interpretations of this old time favorite!


You will need the following:

  • A palette with a highlighting color, base, and matte black. I will be using my favs, Tigi's palette and Urban Decay's first Naked palette. Naked II will work also because it has the matte black included.
  • Shadow brush
  • Brush to apply set powder
  • Powder brush
  • Set powder (I recommend MAC set powder)
  • Primer (I recommend Urban Decay's Primer Potion)
  • Eyeliner
  • Mascara
  • Liner brush or smudgie liner
Here are my maps of each palette so you know which colors I'm referring to:





Start by applying primer to your eyelids, this will help your shadow stay all day. While that's drying, apply set powder underneath your eyes to catch excess shadow . Use a brush to gently "mash" the powder from your nose to the outer edge of your eye. This is what I use:
The Almighty Duo
Use a shadow brush to sweep "champagne" from the Tigi palette across your brow bone. Always start with your lightest colors and work your way across the rainbow to the darker stuff. Light colors will highlight an area and darker hues add depth.


Next sweep "sidecar" from the naked palette from your inner corner to about one third of the way across your lid, then do the same on the bottom. This helps catch the light to make your eyes look awesome!

It doesn't look like much now, but believe me, it makes a difference!


 Now time for some smoke! Metaphorically speaking, of course. Add "purple haze" from the Tigi palette to your lid. Start where you left off with "sidecar" and go to the end of your lid. Pack that pigment in! Use your shadow brush or even a sponge applicator to push the color into your lid.


Now add the same color ("purple haze") to your crease.


Also add a thin line of "purple haze" to your lower lash line on the remaining 2/3 that the "sidecar" isn't on.


Make a little triangle of "black" from the Tigi palette in the outer corner of your lid.


Make sure your brush is clean, then blend everything together. When you blend, just blend the seams between colors, don't make your whole eye purple or it'll just look like domestic issues; nobody wants that.


Now add your highlighting colors again, just to make them "pop."

"Champagne" 

"Sidecar" in the corner.
Eyeliner in a smokey eye is very important. I favor a cat eye line, where you start thin and expand as you get towards the outer edge. If you start too thick, or just put too much everywhere, you won't look sultry and smokey, you'll look like Taylor Momsen.  I used Laura Mercier's Tighline Cake Liner (which I recently reviewed) on the top and a line blended on the bottom from outer corner to about where the "sidecar" starts (this is where the smudgie comes in if you're not using a liner brush). If you put it all the way across, it'll make your eyes look smaller.


I then use Tigi Perfect Eyeliner in black on water line (inner rim.) I put that across the whole line, since it's inside.



Finish with mascara, and you're gorgeous! I used Benefit's "They're Real!" mascara. Don't forget to use the powder brush to sweep away the set powder.

Front/straight on.
Top.
Bottom.

When wearing a smokey eye, the eyes are the focal point of the face, so it's best to pair with a light or nude lip.

Jesus, I'm so smokey!
This is the basic technique for a smokey eye and pretty universal colors. You can personalize it, if you have green eyes (like me), I would stick with violets. If you have brown/hazel eyes, I would go with more of a blue-violet. For blue eyes, I would use more chocolate tones. Contrasting colors will make your specific eye color stand out. Have fun and be sultry tonight! Love yourself, because in the words of RuPaul, "If you can't love yourself, how in the hell are you gonna love somebody else?"

:)

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